FO: Swallowtail Shawl...

My one piece of Holiday gift knitting.


I'm not too creative with labels.

For Grandma.



Pattern: Swallowtail Shawl by Evelyn A. Clark (IKF2006)
Yarn: Sirdar Country Style 4-Ply in "sage." Less than one 100g skein.
Needles: US4/3.5mm Clover bamboo circs and KnitPicks Options
Time: 5 days

Notes:

This shawl was easier and faster than I expected. I wonder if part of it might be because the Peacock Feathers Shawl was my first lace shawl? It seems quite a few lace projects would be a piece of cake compared to that one. Only thing is the P5 for the nupps was a little hard to work. I ended up switching from my bamboo needles in favor of the sharper-tipped Options needles. That helped a lot but there were still a couple moments of struggling.

I made this with an acrylic/wool blend (mostly acrylic) since my grandma machine washes everything. She's never had much patience for housework, and it would be difficult for her to learn special washing instructions. It's a combination of age and a slight language barrier--As she gets older she uses a dialect of Cantonese more frequently that I have trouble understanding (I grew up speaking regular Cantonese at home).

I decided to make this a couple weeks ago while staring at the pile of stash yarn I've been working through for the last couple months. It occurred to me that the Swallowtail Shawl would be perfect for my grandma who is a very small woman and gets cold very easily. She won't drown in it, and she can drape it over her shoulders when she's playing mahjong or watching TV.

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Part of the reason for my lack of Christmas knitting this year is I had to reknit a gift I gave my mom last year. The Sirdar pullover was way too big for her because she was between sizes (what else is new?) and I went with the larger size. I finally got around to taking it apart and reknitting it in the next smaller size, which fits her perfectly.



I made the body a little shorter since my mom is petite. I also modified the sleeves by making them narrower and shorter. The flared style of the original was just too flappy.

I'm also in need of sweaters. A couple of my sweaters need replacing but things in stores are either not quite my taste or are too expensive. So I've been trying to remedy this.



Another bottom-up raglan in the round (one of these days I need to learn how to knit top-down) without a pattern. One raglan side will have a button band extending up along the turtle neck. There will be six buttons total. I could only fit four in when drawing the diagram. The turtle neck is meant to be worn unbuttoned for a split neck look. I just happen to be going through a button phase right now so the more buttons the better! =) The sleeves will be worked separately and sewn in so as to avoid really long rows of working back and forth. I also plan on double-knitting the button band for extra strength.


Finally found a project for the Felted Tweed.

FO: Brilliant Retro...

It's missing the snaps but I'll call it finished.



Pattern: Brilliant Retro by Teva Durham (Interweave Knits Winter 2005)
Yarn: Patons Brilliant in "crystal cream"; 6.5 skeins
Needles: US5/3.75mm Addi Turbos
Time: 1.5 months

Notes:

It's finally done! While this cardi is pretty and sparkly, it's probably one of the more boring projects I've worked on. I think the combination of small gauge, lots of stockinette and ribbing, and a plain shape made it so.

After working on several projects requiring mods (and one without a pattern), it's nice to be able to knit straight from a pattern and not think about it. Normally I'm not into shiny materials, but I ended up using the yarn called for in the pattern because it was on clearance and I really liked the cream color. It reminds me of champagne when knit up. The fabric is actually nicer than I expected considering the metallic thread in it, but the yarn can be annoying to work with. The ends frayed easily so I had to tie a knot at the beginning and end of each skein. When I went back to weave in ends, I took some sewing thread and sewed up the ends to help prevent fraying over time.

The pattern description wasn't kidding when it said the cardi was close-fitting. I made a size larger and the arms are still skin-tight while the body is a touch looser than snug (this might be due to the ribbing in the back).



I also have no idea why I have so much of this yarn left over. I used less than what the *smallest size* called for even though I did not make the smallest size. I'm guessing the designer overestimates the requirements, but I wonder if part of it is just me since I always have an extra skein when I finish a garment.

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Not much new knitting to get done. I'm re-doing a sweater I knit for Mom last year that ended up too big. However, I did get some new goodies--the KnitPicks Options set.


The shiny, pointy tip and the join.

I bought a bunch of Addis in smaller sizes while in the UK as they are way cheaper than in the States (about £3 compared to $15-20 here) and got spoiled used to them. When I had an opportunity to use my Denise needles again, they just didn't feel right anymore. But since Addis are so expensive, I decided to give the Options set a try. They are very similar to Addis but not quite the same. They do feel slightly heavier but not really noticeable. I like the pointy tips and the cords feel the same although I might just be crazy but I think the Addis' cords are still more flexible. My other concern with the Options is that the thread (where the needles and cords are screwed together) will wear out over time. It's still a great deal, though.

FO: (un)Striped V-Neck Vest...

Pattern: Striped V-Neck Vest from Vogue Knitting Winter 2004/05
Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease in "cranberry"; ~2.75 skeins
Needles: US7/4.5mm Denise Interchangeables
Time: 4 days
Mods: No stripes; knit to an unlisted size.

Notes:

I killed two birds with one stone on this project--something for Mom that she needed and destashed. I had originally bought a lot of Wool-Ease for another project that I changed my mind on so I've had it sitting in the stash for a while. This was a good use for it since it's a simple garment that my mom can just toss in the wash. Since this vest is meant to be a close fit, I had to do a bit of math to make it to my mom's measurements since none of the given sizes were a good match. As I noted before, it wasn't difficult since the construction is so simple.

I wouldn't make this vest again, though. Easy as it was (and Vogues labels it as "Very Easy"), the way the armholes are shaped are just...odd. I'm not a fan. But for its purpose, the vest works fine.

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In other news, I have sleeves!



The cardi will finally be ready to seam once they're done blocking.

FO: Wine and Roses Mitts...

Pattern: Wine and Roses Mitts by Jolene Treace; Interweave Knits Winter 2006
Yarn: Peruvian Classic Baby Cashmere in "cashmere blue" (from Elann.com); ~1.5 balls
Needles: US2/2.75mm Clover bamboo DPNs
Time: 4 days

Notes:

This was a destashing project using the yarn I had leftover from the Union Square Market Pullover. I had just a bit less than three balls of the blue left and most of one ball of white, but this project ended up using half the blue (originally I thought if I ran out of yarn I could trim the mitts with white). So the destashing was only half successful.

The project was pretty quick despite getting confused by a couple of the chart symbols. I just decided to trust the pattern and it all worked out. Of course, part of the confusion was a result of how lumpy the lace was while knitting.


Quite a difference, no?

I would definitely recommend this pattern as a way to get rid of small amounts of leftover (fingering weight) yarn in the stash. It doesn't use much and I can imagine how you can add different colors to the edges or even stripe the cuff.

Time to get moving on those sleeves...

FO: Embossed Leaves Socks

Pattern: Embossed Leaves Socks by Mona Schmidt; Interweave Knits Winter 2005
Yarn: Regia Silk in Loden (#70); 2 skeins
Needles: US2/2.75mm Clover bamboo DPNs
Time: 1 month
Mods: Did not break yarn after turning the heel; Worked leaf chart 7 times total instead of 7.5; Grafted toes.

Notes:

I had quite a bit of fun with this. The leaf pattern kept me interested, I really liked the way the heel was worked (although I did modify that part a teeny bit), and I love the toe. I'm not sure I would use the 1x1 rib method for casting on again as this came out rather tight. But since it still fit, I didn't bother to go back and fix it. I also reinforced the heel and toes with some nylon thread since I plan on wearing these around the house all the time.

I'm not a fan of breaking the yarn and rejoining on socks. It's something I try to avoid doing when possible, and on this pattern there really wasn't any reason to do that. I just simply knit across the heel stitches, picked up stitches down the left side of the heel flap, worked across the instep, picked up stitches up the right side of the heel flap, and knit the first half of the heel stitches onto the last needle. Just like any other basic sock.

I ended up leaving the last half repeat of the lace chart because it would have made the socks too long for me. I'm not sure if this is because my row gauge was off, but I know that it was spot on for the leg. Who knows?

Overall, this was a great pattern. I can see why so many people have made these socks. The yarn is also really nice, especially since it doesn't irritate my skin.

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The rational side of me says I should get going on the sleeves for Brilliant Retro. Unfortunately, having my size 2 DPNs freed up meant the rational side lost...


First of the Wine and Roses Mitts

On the bright side, these are going really fast AND I'm using up some leftover yarn that's been sitting in the stash for a year.

FO: Deep V Argyle Vest...

Pattern: Deep V Argyle Vest by Eunny Jang
Yarn: KnitPicks Merino Style in Moss (3.5 balls) and Nutmeg (2.5 balls)
Needles: US4/3.5mm (24"/60cm) Addi Turbos and US4/3.5mm (32"/80cm) Clover Bamboo circs
Time: ~2.5 weeks
Mods: Adjusted for row gauge difference; wider waist.

Notes:

This seemed to fly by fairly quickly. The Argyle pattern is easy to remember, and the pattern was well-written and detailed. I matched the stitch gauge but my row gauge was about four rows off, so I had to go over the chart and make the proper adjustments.

I knitted the smallest size knowing that the fit up top was most important for this vest. However, my waist is not nearly as narrow as the given measurements. I figured I may as well adjust the waist shaping to my own measurements while I was doing the math for the different row gauge. I'm glad I did this because the fit around the waist is still snug (but in a good way) with an additional two inches. If I had gone ahead with the given measurement...Well, let's just say it wouldn't have been pretty.

I did make a couple teeny mistakes. They didn't really affect the garment and were easy to work around. I accidentally picked up two extra stitches on the first armband I knit. Since it was only two stitches and not even noticeable, I just fixed the rib pattern under the arm by purling four over the side seam. I also cast-on 11 stitches instead of 9 when setting the front neck steek. I didn't notice this until I was almost done knitting the whole thing. I ended up just securing the relevent stitches of the steek were it 9 stitches wide and cut out the entire middle section I didn't need. I probably would have just left it alone and not done anything "fixing" except the extra fabric I had to fold inside would have been too wide.

The fabric is really thick and would have taken forever to dry so I cheated. My parents have a rack you can put in the dryer plus an air fluff (no heat) setting. In fact, now that I think about it, I think the rack is called a sweater rack. Anyway, after soaking the vest I reshaped to the proper dimensions, lay it on the sweater rack, and let the dryer do the work. Normally if I have pieces or lace I pin them out. If I have an entire garment, I just take advantage of the fancy dryer. ;)

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I just started on Colchique. I'm using some Rowan Felted Tweed from the stash that my mom got me. I'm a little concerned that the cables won't show up well in this yarn but it's not a big deal for me. I mostly just want to get the yarn out of my stash but I have no idea what else I'd make with it. I'd also been wanting to make Colchique for a while but it's never been enough of a priority for me to buy yarn for it.

FO: Button-up sleeves...

Pattern: My own; Based on a couple sweaters I've seen and a top from Phildar Tendances (Printemps 1, no. 443)
Yarn: Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton DK in shade 1857 "Lilac"; ~3.5 balls (770yds/700m)
Needles: US4/3.5mm Clover bamboo circ and US3/3.25mm Susan Bates Silverado circ
Other: 8x23mm washable buttons
Time: < Four weeks of knitting.

Notes:

Since the aforementioned Phildar top was the only pattern in that issue that I really wanted to knit, I decided to knit the top without a pattern rather than buy the magazine.

There isn't much more really I need to say about the construction in addition to my previous post. I knitted a folded hem with a purl row at the fold so it wouldn't look so rounded. I also used a bit of short row shaping for the front neck and shoulders. Originally I had buttonholes in the front band but that wasn't stable enough for this type of top. Since they aren't meant to be functional, anyway, I re-knit the band without the buttonholes, sewed in the buttons, and tacked the bottom band to the sleeve on the inside for extra stability.



The most difficult thing to work out on this top was the upper arm and raglan shaping. I'd originally wanted the top to have a slightly loose fit but the sleeves ended up being fitted (although not too tight, fortunately). The math and measurements of the sleeves are probably the only thing I would tweak were I to make this again. Other than that, I am very pleased with my first stab at knitting a sweater sans pattern.

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Right now I'm mostly concentrating on the Argyle Vest. I did swatch for the Colchique but since the vest is moving along rather quickly, I probably won't start on it until the vest is finished.


From swatch to WIP...

I swatched for this in the round on DPNs and created an alternating vertical stripe for a few stitches. I cut down the center of the striped stitches, washed the swatch, blocked, and measured. I found that my row gauge was pretty off so I've been re-calculating the pattern to make up for it. I also knit fewer waist decreases because the original waist measurement for the size I'm working is actually too tight for me.

FO: Antoinette...

I just moved back to the US and have been busy so posting has been rather slow. In the meantime, I have another FO!



Pattern: Antoinette from Rowan 39
Yarn: Rowan Cotton Rope in shade 063 "parma"; 12 balls
Needles: US10/6mm and US9/5.5mm Denise Interchangeables
Time: ≤ 3 weeks

Notes:

This was a very simple cardigan to knit--mostly stockinette with just a bit of mock cable rib for interest. I wasn't a huge fan of the yarn, though. I like the feel of the knitted fabric but it wasn't fun to work with. The plies were easily split, and I found it difficult to weave in ends without making it noticeable. The latter might just be due to the thickness of the yarn, though.

I knit the smallest size, which called for 12 balls and I pretty must used it all up. I had two feet left. I bought a couple extra balls just in case that I didn't use in the end, but I probably would have used a bit of one extra if I hadn't have used the Russian join for adding new balls of yarn.

Overall I'm pretty satisfied with this cardi. I just need to go back and fix a couple spots where the joins between balls of yarn is quite visible but that shouldn't be a huge problem.

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Next up: a cotton top with buttoned sleeves. I've been working on the sketches and pattern for a while now and finally got around to starting it a couple weeks ago. Another nice, simple knit but with a fun little twist.

I also just started the Deep V Argyle Vest because I can't seem to stay away from colorwork or new (to me) techniques. This time, steeking! I'm looking forward to it. (Note: I have a mildly destructive side to me so the idea of cutting my knitting and getting away with it intrigues me.)

More pending fall knits include Sarcelle by Kristi from Knitters Anonymous, a thick wrap sweater that I've been sketching, and this Phildar pullover (a.k.a. "Colchique") that I've been thinking about for months. The Colchique will depend on how the Rowan Felted Tweed I have in my stash looks in the stitch pattern, though.

I'm also thinking about the Embellished V-Neck from this fall's issue of Vogue Knitting.



However, I'm hoping to find photos other than the magazine before I decide to do it.

FO: Orangina...

I'm on a roll.


Drying in the window.

Pattern: Orangina by Stefanie Japel (Glampyre)
Yarn: Jaeger Java (5.5 balls)
Needles: US4/3.5mm Addi Turbos; US3/3.24mm Inox aluminum circs
Time: ~2 months of on and off knitting
Mods: Joined front and back at base of armholes; went down one needle size for ribbing.

Notes:

This pattern is really simple and easy, which is great for "in-between" moments. I accidentally knit the lace part about an inch short--I knit the 36" side but for some reason, I must have looked at the 34" instructions when I checked for length. It's not too bad, though. My mom will be wearing something underneath, and she has a shortish torso so it should be fine.

I read in a couple places that a few people have gone down a needle size for the ribbing so that it draws in more rather than hanging loose. I can't really tell if it made a difference for me as the yarn has pretty much zero elasticity nor do different stitch patterns seem to produce very different gauges.

Yes, I finally found some info on the Java! According to the ball band, it should be a fingering weight (and it looks like it, too) but the wiseNeedle entry calls it DK. I swatched in four different needles sizes and I think it's closer to fingering. The fabric is just too open and floppy on US5/3.75mm needles. However, the fabric is also a little stiff so you can't really knit it at anything less than US3/3.25mm's, either. Anyway, the yarn was fairly coarse to work with, which did start to bother me after a while. Once knitted up, the fabric does have a nice and pretty sheen. I just hope it softens up enough after it dries.

In other news, I cast on for Antoinette. It's pretty straight forward stockinette in a chunky yarn on large needles (well, large compared to the needle sizes I normally use). Perfect for my multi-tasking habit.


The least cluttered part of my desk...

FO: Argyle Stockings...

Inspired by Eunny and my impatience to wait for the pattern:



Pattern: The chart that Eunny posted; the rest I figured out myself.
Yarn: Dale Baby Ull in purple (1.67 balls/300yds/275m) and pastel purple (1.33 balls/240yds/220m)
Needles: US2/2.75mm Clover bamboo DPNs
Time: About 1 month.

Notes:

The first stocking took a while because I made a mathematical error that I didn't realize until I was halfway through with the foot. I had to frog the whole thing, go back the the drawing board (or in this case, sheets of graph paper), and start all over. The second was a breeze since I had the pattern down.

1x1 Twisted rib for the top.

The measurements I needed were multiples of 12 sts, so I did not knit a "back seam." I just decreased at the beginning and end of every couple rounds (I guess you can call this an "invisible" back seam). This created a tiny bit of a job between the decrease section, which probably wouldn't be noticeable in anything else but it stands out among the colorwork. Or at least it does to me. Blocking will probably take care of this.

I did the toe and heel in just the purple because I didn't want anything to distract from the argyle pattern. I used two strands, alternating every-other stitch, to make them thicker and stronger. I think the technical term might be tvåändsstickning but I'm not sure if I did it exactly this way.

While I generally like the end result of heel flaps and gussets, I don't really like the process, especially when I'm already dealing with colorwork. Instead, I decided to try doing an afterthought heel. Basically, once done with the leg, you knit about half the stitches onto waste yarn and continue knitting around in pattern for the foot and toe. Then you go back, pick up the stitches on either side of the waste yarn, remove the yarn, and knit around while decreasing in a similar fashion as the toe. I found that this heel also fits me really well and is very comfortable. I think I'll use it more from now on. Only problem is I still have a little trouble with picking up stitches on one side of the waste yarn, but maybe this will clear up once I try it on a single, solid-colored sock.

Originally, I thought knitting the sole in just pastel purple would look nice. I soon realized that this wouldn't work because I still needed the darker color for the top of the foot. Duh. So I charted out an upside-down "V" pattern that would look mostly pastel purple but still allow me to carry the purple around.



I love, love, love these socks. They're comfy, warm, and made to my measurements so they're a perfect fit. And, of course, I love the color (I love anything that's purple). I think I might make more.

Also, I'm thinking that the key to getting me into sock-knitting is colorwork. I really enjoyed making these and the Norwegian Stockings (despite all the frustration). Lace socks may also be addictive but I haven't gotten around to knitting them (I've only done one pair as a traveling project) enough to tell.

FO: Saranac...

Pretend there's a zipper.



Pattern: Saranac by Rebecca Hatcher found on Knitty
Yarn: Sirdar Aran with Wool in shade Indigo (#0931); 8.5 balls
Needles: US7/4.5mm and US8/5mm Denise Interchangeables
Time: About 2 months
Mods: None, really, although I did have to buy a longer zipper. Either my row gauge ended up being bigger or the designer meant for it to zip up to the base of the turtle neck. I wanted it to go all the way up.

Notes:

This started out as a very plain, all stockinette pullover as a Christmas gift for my dad. Yeah, oops. I'd finished the body and realized I hated it so I started over with this pattern instead. This was a really easy knit and would-be quick if it weren't so big. It usually takes me three weeks to knit a sweater for myself, so I did a size comparison to help illustrate why this took me relatively long.



I don't think I ever want to knit a men's sweater again. That's the USM pullover I knitted early this year, by the way.

Now I just need to figure out how to install a zipper.

FO: Norwegian Stockings...

Finally!



Pattern: Norwegian Stockings from Folk Socks by Nancy Bush.
Start/Finish: April 2006 to 23 June 2006
Yarn: Dale Baby Ull in neapolitan ice cream (ha!); approx. 2 skeins brown, 1.5 skeins pink, little bit of cream.
Needles: Clover bamboo DPNs size US2/2.75mm
Mods: Used tubular cast-on, shorter than called for (my leg isn't 15in. long), yarn sub, and grafted toes instead of drawing the yarn through the stitches.

Notes:

I technically made three stockings. The first had been ripped out so many times that the yarn pretty much wore out. I decided to just leave the first stocking as is (I'll probably have to throw it out or use it for tiny projects) and start over. I found that my stranding worked out better by knitting the main color (brown) English style (my preferred method) and the contrasting colors continental style.

I really didn't like the way the heel was worked--so much cutting and joining (not to mention the ends I had to weave in later). I found purling in the stranding technique to be quite difficult although this may be because I have trouble purling continentally. Next time I make these (and yes, I'm sure there will be a next time!), I'll try using an afterthought heel. I didn't know how to make one until the stockings were almost done. The pink is also darker than I'd like, but I suppose that's the problem with ordering online. I would have preferred something paler but they still turned out okay.

Overall, I love my stockings. So cute and comfy. I found, on the second stocking, that it only takes me a few days to make one. I guess my struggles with it were a combination of getting my tension right and second sock syndrome.

More photos:

FO: Hedera...

After Dulaan knitting, rather than soldier on with my current projects I took a fun little break:



Pattern: Hedera by Cookie A. from Knitty.com
Yarn: Sunbeam St. Ives in "heather" (#3032); approx. 300yds/273m
Needles: Addi Turbo DPNs size US1-ish/2.5mm
Mods: Shortened heel flap.

Notes:

I originally started this late last month as a traveling project when I met up with a friend in London. I got about halfway through with one sock and forgot about it until I mailed off the Dulaan donation. It's a pretty quick and easy knit, and the pattern was simple to memorize. I would say it took me a little over a week to complete. Would have taken less except I had to go back and fix mistakes when I found out the pattern had quite a bit of errata. I also had a problem with the height of the heel given in the pattern. I tried on the first complete sock, saw that it was much too loose around the ankle (not to mention it looked funny), so I frogged back to the end of the leg. I ended up doing 16 repeats of the heel flap instead of the 24 for a total of 32 rows instead of 48. I also worked 16 lace repeats instead of 14 on the leg but that was an accident I decided to go with. That little bit of extra length worked out since I shortened the heel, anyway.

Admittedly, that's not a great picture I posted. It seems socks on feet, especially lacey socks, are rather difficult to photograph properly. I'm sure the lack of natural light (I live on the ground floor/basement of my dorm with a tiny window) and the unblocked state of the socks didn't help much, either. The thing about how I block socks is (well, for the very few times I've ever knit socks) is that I just throw them in wash with the rest of my laundry and then I lay them out to dry. Hey, I already find sock knitting enough of a chore, may as well make something a little easier, right?

FOs: Dulaan Project 2006...

Hat
Pattern: None--based on basic beanies
Yarn: Sirdar Country Style DK left over from Sirdar sweater knitted for Mom for Christmas.
Needles: Addi Natura DPNs size US6/4mm

Socks
Pattern: None--referenced Socks 101 on Knitty.com.
Yarn: Opal Elemente left over from socks knitted for my brother and sister-in-law for Christmas.
Needles: Addi Turbo DPNs size US1-ish/2.5mm.

Scarf
Pattern: None--basic garter stitch.
Yarn: Lion Brand Homespun from an abandoned project.
Needles: Denise Interchangeables size US10/6mm.

Sweater
Pattern: None--based on what I know of Icelandic yoke sweater construction. Knit body in round, knit sleeves in round join sleeves to body, and continue knitting around for yoke and neck.
Yarn: Lion Brand Homespun from an abandoned project.
Needles: Denise Interchangeables size US10/6mm; Brittany Birch DPNs size US8/5mm

Notes:

I left my US10/6mm DPNs at my parents' house and the stores here don't carry anything higher than 5mm. I used my set of US8's and knit a little looser than normal. This worked out just fine.

This whole project took about two weeks to complete. Childrens clothing just really zooms by. On the sweater, it also helped that the yarn was much thicker than what I normally use.

I finished the last bit last night and posted the items today. Yay for helping to keep Mongolian kids warm and finding an excellent use for leftover yarn!

FO: Peacock Feathers Shawl...

Pattern: Peacock Feathers from Fiddlesticksknitting.com
Start/finish: End of March 2006-12 May, 2006
Yarn: Superfine Merino in Peacock, approx. 800yds/730m
Yarn and pattern source: Theknitter.com--they have great service and free shipping, btw.
Needles: 24in/60cm Inox aluminum circs size US3/3.25mm; 3mm crochet hook (I don't think there's a US size equivalent)
Mods: Used one needle size smaller than called for; yarn substitution; smaller finished size.

Notes:
In the pattern, the wingspan of the shawl is supposed to measure over 80 inches, which is huge. Being as short as I am, I really didn't think I could carry that. I also didn't like how "airy" the shawl looked in the pictures so I used a smaller needle size. I think this worked out really well. The motifs look much more defined, which is what I generally prefer with lace, and it's just the right size for me.

Unblocked, the shawl measured about 55 inches from tip to tip...



And after the magic of blocking...



It grew almost ten inches!

Since I don't really have any surface large enough to block on (I do like sleeping in my bed), I completely soaked it and pinned it out just to get it into the general shape and size. When it was almost dry, and almost time for me to go to sleep, I took out my trusty new toy--a travel steam iron. I steamed ironed the crocheted loop edging and lightly steamed the rest of the shawl. Then I draped it on my clothes drying rack to finish drying. Normally I like to do full wet-blocking the whole way but this was the next best thing.

Things I learned:

How to use a crochet hook. Before this, I only owned two crochet hooks: a size G hook from the early days of serious knitting to fix dropped stitches and a 2.5mm hook to fix dropped stitches when I started knitting a lot in finer gauges. I had never made a crochet chain of any kind, and when I got to the crocheted loop bind off I was at a bit of a loss. Thankfully the pattern came with clear, illustrated instructions on how to work the bind off. Only problem was the photos showed the person holding the hook in the right hand and the yarn in the left hand. I tried it this way, absolution could not work the chains with the yarn in my left hand, and ended up working the BO with both the hook and yarn in my right hand. I also found it awkward to hold the hook in my right hand although the yarn in my right hand felt fine. In short, I think I might be a left-handed crocheter...well, should I ever pick up crochet.

Reading my knitting. This isn't something new but it's a skill that I definitely improved on while making this shawl. One weird knitting quirk of mine is I have trouble using lifelines. Not really sure why. I mean, they're supposed to be helpful and I'm pretty sure my life would be so much easier if I used them. But something always goes wrong when I try to insert a lifeline into my knitting. As a result, I've become pretty good at frogging back and picking up live stiches after doing it so many times. Anyway, I really didn't want to frog back to fix mistakes when the shawl got pretty big so I took my small crochet hook and would drop a stitch or two in order to fix mistakes. This is kind of a headache with lace--you really need to figure out what that part of the repeat is supposed to look like in stitch form but I somehow got some sort of rhythm going. Thankfully, I would notice my mistakes about one or two rows past it so I didn't have to go down too far and usually they involved dropped YOs.

How one row can turn into two sides of a triangle with the center being the point. At first this seemed like magic to me but now I have the general idea. It's only the set-up rows that are still a mystery to me.

FO: Corinne...

Of course, when I finished this last night I realized that a) lace garments require solid garments to be worn underneath and b) I do not own anything to wear under this dress. For photo purposes, I made do with a tank top and leggings.



Pattern: Corinne from Knitting Fog
Start/Finish: Mar. 17 - Mar. 22, 2006
Yarn: Jaeger Aqua in chrome (306); approx. 5.5 skeins (633yds/583m)
Needles: Denise Interchangeables sizes US9/5.5mm and US6/4mm
Modifications: Adjustments for row gauge difference; shortened skirt by 8in/20cm

Notes:

Gauge: The gauge given is measured over the parachute lace pattern. For some reason my stitch gauge was spot on but my row gauge was two times smaller than the one in the pattern. Rather than calculating the length measurement using 12 rounds as 10cm, I had to double that to 24 rounds to 10cm.

Pattern: This was a fairly simple pattern. The lace pattern was easy to memorize - only six repeats - and read. Although part of what made it easier to read the knitting was the cotton yarn. I could see the stitches clearly and note exactly what stitch did what in the pattern. It's also a fairly concise pattern. It only gives instructions for a size small. However, it would not be difficult to make adjustments for larger sizes. There were also a couple parts that could have used more details in describing how to work the pattern but it was generally simple enough that anything missing I could figure out.

Surpringly, this dress has worked out quite nicely. As I've mentioned before, I don't normally find knit dresses or skirts flattering, but this one is. I did decide to make it 20cm shorter, though. The original pattern has the dress going down to the knees on someone who looks on the tall side. Or at least taller than me. I considered only going 10cm shorter to accommodate my height (or lack thereof), but I decided on 20cm because that would make it short enough to wear with pants but not too short to wear alone. It ended up being about three to four inches above the knee depending on how much I move.

A note on yardage: If making the dress to the original length, I would recommend getting a bit more yarn than called for. While I did sub the yarn, the Jaeger Aqua matched the description of the yarn the designer used right down to the yardage (meterage?). I bought what was required and shortened the skirt quite substantially and still only had about half a skein (50m) left. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have had enough for the full length version.

FO: Military Barbie Beret...

Pattern: Nancy Drew/Speckled Beret by Kate Gilbert (Interweave Knits Winter 2005)
Start/Finish: Mar. 9, 2006-Mar. 14, 2006 (had to restart)
Yarn: Louisa Harding Kimono Angora (color 4); one 25g ball (124yds/112m)
Needles: Addi Turbo DPNs size US1-sh/2.5mm
Modifications: Unspeckled; used a different type of tubular cast on than called for; renamed Miltary Barbie upon seeing the pink camo patterning

More notes plus progress pics below the flip.

The pattern uses a tubular cast on described here, which, if I understand it correctly, leaves live stitches. The impression I get is that you run elastic through the cast on edge, but the pattern in IK doesn't say anything about that.

I neither wanted to use elastic nor wanted worry about how solid the brim was, so I restarted the beret (rather than frogging completely, I just started from the other end of the ball of yarn and frogged and knitted at the same time) using the tubular cast on that Anna posted a tutorial on. Only made a slight alteration for working in the round, which was to purl for four rows in the beginning before picking up and knitting stitches.

Admittedly I omitted a row here and there for this particular beret. Since the yarn broke a few times--I later figured that the breakage was because the yarn was worn from being worked and reworked--I would not have had enough to finish without joining another ball by a little more than ten inches. I didn't really want to join new yarn for just a few, short rounds so I just worked a few rounds less. Didn't affect the overall result as far as I can tell but that did show me that one ball of Kimono Angora is *just* enough for a hat.

I'll conclude with one final image and a thought:



Does this make remind anyone of those paint stands at the fair where you have a frisbee or piece of cardboard spinning on a wheel while you squirt paint on it?

FO: Pearl Buck Swing Jacket...

She's finished and just in time. If I send it out tomorrow after class, my mom will get it in time for her birthday. =)



Pattern: Pearl Buck Swing Jacket by Kate Gilbert (Interweave Knits Winter 2005/2006)
Start/Finish: Feb. 8, 2006 - Mar. 7, 2006
Yarn: Jaeger Matchmaker Merino DK - Burgundy (655); approximately 1050yds/960m
Needles: Denise Interchangeables size US6/4mm
Modifications: Added hook and eye closure



Notes:

This felt like a fairly easy/quick knit compared to the Union Square Market pullover. I love the bracelet-length sleeves. Functional but won't get in the way. I think my seaming of the sleeves was a tad wonky at the yoke (had a bit of trouble there) but overall, I'm very happy with how this turned out. I hope my mom will be as happy with it as I am...she's the one who will be wearing it!

I couldn't find a zipper (I can't believe how hard it is to find a zipper in this town) so I resorted to sewing hooks and eyes to some ribbon and sewing that to the inside edge of the jacket openings. Let it be known here and now that I can't sew to save my life. The closure device was whip-stitched in because it was the only way I could sew invisibly (well, invible from the outside, anyway). One thing I didn't take into account when I measured the ribbon was that the edges stretched by about an inch longer after a bit of handling. It worked out in the end but I think for future reference, if I ever knit a jacket with a similar opening again I will sew in some ribbon or tape to help it keep its structure.

Things I learned:

Long-tail cast on has its use.

How to estimate the length of a tail needed for a long-tail cast on.

How cables work...sort of.

Things I need to work on:

Picking up stitches.

Seaming at intersections of pieces (e.g. where the sleeves met the back and yoke seam).

Sewing.

FO: Union Square Market Pullover...

Pattern: Union Square Market Pullover by Kate Gilbert (Interweave Knits Fall 2005)
Start/Finish: Jan. 12-Feb. 9, 2006
Yarn: Peruvian Collection Baby Cashmere from Elann - Cashmere Blue (1620) and Parchment (100); approx. 1000yds/915m MC and 150yds/140m CC
Needles: 24"/60cm Inox circular size US3/3.25mm; 32"/80cm Susan Bates Silverado circular size US3/3.25mm
Modifications: Adjusted for row gauge change on divided part of body; sleeves

Notes:

I hit gauge exactly when working in the round. However, when I divided for the front and back on the body, I found that my row gauge was looser (the stitch gauge was not affected, oddly enough). I'd been following the Union Square KAL for a while but thought it was too late to join by the time I decided to make this (turns out that I could have joined late). The KAL was a great resource, especially regarding the sleeves.

I, like several before me, modified the sleeve cuff so that it wouldn't be so wide. I cast on 76 stitches instead of the 92 in the pattern, knit the short row sections in pattern, increased evenly for the first half (to the elbow) where I worked the rest in pattern. I also made the sleeves about an inch shorter. I originally started the left sleeve with Prym DPNs (after a couple failed attempts at magic loop with provisional caston on another circ). Halfway through the sleeve, I got frustrated with the ladders that were occurring. I normally don't have a problem with ladders when using DPNs but then again, I normally use Addi or bamboo DPNs. I think the problem here was the combination of a lighter fabric and heavier needles. I ended up frogging back to one inch above the cuff and switching to magic loop (successfully) for the sleeves.

The buttons are from C&H Fabrics, a local fabric chain and more or less the only place to buy craft materials around here. I thought about looking for buttons the last time I was in London but then, I'm not normally too picky about my buttons. Either way, I really like the ones I picked up. I wanted something silvery but also natural-looking and got just that. I also cheated a tad on the button loops. For the sake of efficiency (and laziness), I took leftover lengths of the twisted cords from the first set of button loops and just attached them for the last set.



This is probably my best sweater-knitting effort so far. I've knit about four sweaters and of all four, I'm especially proud of this one. My seaming has improved a great deal from last fall, let alone from my first sweater a year ago. I also love the color. I normally prefer darker colors but the cashmere blue is nice and subtle for a sweater with such a unique structure. The fabric is light but warm (yay, alpaca!). This one will definitely be worn many times.